By Peter Yeap
Sex symbol Bridgitte Bardot's inimitable style and her effortless glamor as seen in the fifties movie 'And God Created Woman' form the design inspiration for newcomer on the Malaysian fashion scene, BRIAN KHOO's Spring/Summer 2017 collection.
The young designer spent his formative years between Sabah, Malaysia and Melbourne, Australia. He studied in ESMOD Paris where he graduated with honours, receiving "The Best Collection" of 2013.
Prior to his namesake brand, he has held various roles with various fashion labels in China, Malaysia, Australia and France - His most recent being with Christian Dior Couture Paris as a designer assistant. He launched his first womenswear collection in 2016 and introduced an exclusive made-to-measure service to private clients at his atelier - a premium package with the in-house artisans to create a customized bespoke garment for individual clients.
Wielding a flair for the theatrical in his designs, Khoo evokes the charisma of old Hollywood, incorporating it into a modern wardrobe.
His philosophy is clear: Proportion, cut, fit and form must follow function.
The designer explains further, "I like to experiment with different materials, mixing them together in one garment."
"There are no specific rules when it comes to my fabric stories."
With a design aesthetic that features precise cutting techniques with impeccable tailoring skills, Khoo's designs are surprisingly modern and wearable. Taut dresses with slits and exposed skin are often extreme but always controlled, creating garments with a dynamic fashion language.
Gentle brocades and rich velvets, are combined with delicately patterned cottons into a seemingly relaxed radicalness that exudes an unguarded elegance.
"I tend to choose classic materials such as plain wools and silks and contrasting them with more experimental materials such as sequins, feathers and exotic leathers."
The juxtaposition of sheer knits with exquisite embroidery and fringe are the focus point for the fall collection, in which Khoo's successfully and wittily uses his design aesthetic and sensibility to produce elegance contemporary clothes yet to propel womenswear design forward.
The men's collection is also natural extension of the BRIAN KHOO philosophy.
The exceptional interlaces of masculine and feminine silhouettes with the absolute diaphanous fabric that fuels the thirst for contemporary clothes, nourishing an uncompromised level of ingenious virtue.
"When designing for menswear I try to challenge the norm by associating it with more feminine and daring features whilst still maintaining classic menswear elements."
With an impressive collection this upcoming season, it is clear that whilst Brian Khoo was inspired by Hollywood, the stars are definitely shining bright on his career.
