By Kien Lee
In a collaboration that pushes the boundaries of craftsmanship and luxury, two iconic Maisons — Bvlgari and MB&F — have joined forces once again to unveil a creation that pushes the boundaries of haute horlogerie and jewellery. The resulting masterpiece is not only a bold fusion of two very different worlds, but also a tribute to the Year of the Snake in the Chinese calendar.
It is a timepiece that merges Bvlgari’s Roman elegance and storied heritage with MB&F’s avant-garde, mechanical artistry.
The Perfect Fusion: Two Distinct Worlds
On the one hand, Bvlgari, the renowned Italian jeweller founded in 1884, is synonymous with exquisite craftsmanship and unmatched luxury. The brand has long catered to the world’s elite, earning the title of the "Jeweller to the Stars" for its glamorous creations. Known for combining Italian elegance with Swiss precision, Bvlgari has redefined the world of high jewellery with iconic collections such as Serpenti, which evokes a sense of eternal rebirth and transformation, and the sleek, minimalist lines of the Octo Finissimo collection.
On the other hand, MB&F — Maximilian Büsser & Friends — has cultivated an entirely different identity since its inception in 2005. An independent brand in a sea of established watchmakers, MB&F has made its mark by creating three-dimensional, kinetic timepieces that challenge traditional watchmaking conventions. Their Horological Machines take inspiration from sources as varied as science fiction, supercars, and the animal kingdom. Known for their bold aesthetics and technical innovation, MB&F has become a cult favourite among watch aficionados who value artistry and ingenuity over tradition.
This unlikely partnership came about following a serendipitous meeting between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari’s Director of Watchmaking Creation, and Maximilian Büsser, the founder of MB&F. What followed was a collaboration that merged two powerful visions. The first result, the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra in 2021, injected Bvlgari’s exuberant and colourful jewellery aesthetic into the world of MB&F’s Legacy Machines. The success of that first collaboration set the stage for what would become an even more audacious second chapter.
Reimagining the Serpenti: A Mechanical Marvel
For their second collaborative effort, Bvlgari and MB&F set their sights on one of Bvlgari’s most iconic symbols: the Serpenti. A creature of profound symbolism, the snake has long been a representation of rebirth, transformation, and eternal renewal. But in this latest creation, the Serpenti is reinterpreted not as a jewellery piece, but as a Horological Machine — a timepiece where engineering and design coexist in perfect harmony.
The transformation of the Serpenti into a mechanical marvel was no small feat. The watch’s case, an intricate and bold departure from the traditional round form, demanded a complete rethinking of design, manufacturing, and mechanical engineering. Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani described the process as a “pleasure to create,” but the reality was much more complex than that. The design evolved through hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models, with every detail meticulously refined.
Unlike classic round cases that offer a predictable canvas, the Serpenti’s case is a complex shape that required an entirely new approach. The intricate curves of the case extend beyond the metalwork and encompass five meticulously crafted sapphire crystals, including a multi-facetted rear section. This level of complexity in design made the case both a challenge to machine and finish, not to mention the added difficulty of making it water-resistant to 30 meters — a requirement for any high-end timepiece. The result is a visually arresting creation that pushes the boundaries of what a luxury watch can be.
A Movement Like No Other
Inside the Serpenti, MB&F has created an equally unconventional movement, one that breaks free from the traditional mechanics of watchmaking. The time is displayed on revolving hour and minute domes, symbolising the snake’s eyes, and these domes are machined from solid aluminium to keep them as light as possible. An oversized 14mm flying balance wheel serves as the watch's mechanical brain, held in place by a three-dimensional balance bridge. The result is a timepiece that doesn’t just tell the time; it mesmerises the wearer, inviting them to become immersed in its finely tuned movement.
For the collectors who appreciate artisanal craftsmanship, MB&F continues to uphold the tradition of hand-finishing. The movement is comprised of 310 components, and every piece is carefully finished by hand—an approach that allows the brand to produce only six to eight Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti movements per month. This level of exclusivity ensures that each watch is a true work of art, made to the highest standards of haute horlogerie.
A Nod to Automotive Design
But the innovation doesn't stop with the mechanical complexities. Both Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Maximilian Büsser share a passion for automotive design, and their love for cars is evident in the Serpenti’s design.
The watch’s case mirrors the sleek lines of automotive bodywork, while the stepped sapphire crystal is reminiscent of the rear window flaps of a sports car. The crowns of the watch could easily be mistaken for car wheels, and the exposed part of the movement includes engine-like components, further emphasising the crossover between luxury timepieces and high-performance automobiles.
Limited Editions and Pricing
As with all creations from Bvlgari and MB&F, the Serpenti is a limited edition masterpiece, with only 33 pieces of each variation available. The three versions include a Grade 5 titanium case with blue hour and minute domes, an 18K rose gold case with piercing green eyes, and a black PVD-coated stainless steel version with vibrant red eyes.
With such exclusivity comes a price tag to match: the titanium and stainless steel versions are priced at CHF 132,000, while the 18K rose gold edition is available for CHF 152,000.
The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is not just a timepiece. It is a testament to what happens when two worlds collide, creating something entirely new, exciting, and exceptional.
